In Tartu today. How surprisingly charming this little Southeastern Estonian town is. Perhaps little for me, but it is the second largest city of Estonia after Tallinn, boasting a population of about 95,000 people. Yes, really. And who knows how many students.The vibe here is historic, hip, and smart. There are hipster cafés, cool murals, old wooden houses, and an almost Cambridge-y breeze in the air.  Naturally I am here for the smarts and the science. It’s in the air, too.(Tartu, Estonia; May 2017)