This blue marble

– and yet it spins


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The long haul

trekday1-3Bags of rice. Cooking gas. Plywood. Entire doors. And toilet paper and chocolate for the tourists. In the mountains, everything must be carried up. Some towns are fortunate enough to receive regular helicopter traffic, but most are simply grateful to the sherpas.

As we stood on the airport, watching a little prop plane unload, it was quite mind-boggling  to see that after the avalanche of people and backpacks down from the tiny aircraft, another avalanche of rice bags followed. That thing must have had rice bags in the cockpit, in the rear cargo hold, even underneath the passenger seats. trekday1-1Everything must be carried up. And, since most tea houses are proud to boast advertising for export beer (San Miguel is a favorite), all the beer cans must be carried up, too. Fortunately, bottled water for tourists is actually bottled in local village sources, so only the empty plastic must be carried up. trekday1-4If I ever settled on a life change to live up here, I would open a business in carrying up toilet paper and chocolate. One toilet paper roll costs more than a bottle of water, and the price increases the further you go from Lukla towards Everest. Chocolate is incredibly expensive, but of course it is easily traded because who can resist a bar of chocolate after a day’s trekking? I know I can’t.trekday1-2(Mt Everest Base Camp Trail, Nepal; November 2016)


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Om mani padme hum

mani-1Beautiful, painted stone carvings. “Om mani padme hum”, over and over, for those who can read the script. Mani stones are scattered along popular travel routes in the mountains near the Tibetan border. Near mani stones one can often find a Tibetan Buddhist monastery, as it is the sadhana (devotional practice) of monks to carve and paint them.
mani-2Circling clockwise around the mani stones and prayer wheel rooms, I could imagine worse ways to spend my life than up here, in the clear, quiet air, on the roof of the world, meditating while creating things of beauty. Back home the trend is KonMari, downshifting, and general minimalism. Up here minimalism is a given, and the aim is for the next level: to spend one’s life creating a beautiful mind through creating a more beautiful world.mani-3

(Everest Base Camp Trail, Nepal; November 2016)


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Up the tourist highway

Lukla-3Tea houses, souvenir shops, cows, chicken, colorfully dressed people, even an Irish pub. If you are looking for undiscovered Nepal, do not consider the Everest Base Camp trail. Hundreds of people discover it each day before you do.

But the air is crisp and fresh at 2860 m altitude. Donkeys and dzos (hybrid between yak and cow) are lounging around, packed and ready to go, all the way up to Base Camp (poor creatures).Lukla-5Tourist is as tourist does. Hence, all tourists must report to the Tourist Police at checkpoints along the way. With a photo. Surprisingly, Nepal insists of being aware of who is where, in case of a mudslide or an earthquake.Lukla-4The thermometer climbed to 17 degrees centigrade during the day, and dropped down to -2 degrees at night. Later it would turn out we caught the last week of beautiful fall weather.
Lukla-6And upward we went, after the oxen and the sherpas and the rest of the trekkers. Towards the snowy mountains and the blue, thinning mountain air.Lukla-7(Lukla, Nepal; November 2016)


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Touchdown: the world’s most dangerous airport

Lukla-1“We cannot leave Nepal for the last time without seeing Everest”, I recall my colleagues stating. Our social business startup was doing great and it was time to let it fly unassisted. This visit was to be the last one for the project. And no, we could not leave Nepal without seeing Mount Everest.

One early morning I found myself on a little prop plane, skirting the mountaintops, on my way to the most dangerous airport in the world. Lukla requires clear skies, and small planes on full throttle going up and full brake going down. Just watch any YouTube video and you’ll see how the pilot slams on the brakes and maneuvers a hasty hairpin turn before hitting the rock wall at the end of the runway.

And if you dare, observe takeoff: leaving Lukla some days later, our pilot slammed full throttle before lifting brakes and sped on the readily downward-slanting runway like he had a death wish. Grown men screamed in their seats as we zoomed down the runway, where at the end the only options were either liftoff, or crash down over the precipice into the valley below.

We lifted, as you can guess. Thank goodness. To be continued.
Lukla-2(Lukla airport, Nepal; November 2016)


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A cliché that wasn’t

Processed with Snapseed.Langkawi. What a touristy-sounding destination. Never was on my travel bucket list. But somehow I ended up there anyway – and instead of my cliché come true, I was whisked away into the middle of a 10 million-year-old rainforest and by a large reef, on a wonderful private beach. The Andaman Resort makes an effort to educate visitors about the jungle, the ocean, and the reef. It claims to run a sustainable, green policy, which seems reasonable giving-back, in return of being allowed to run a resort in the middle of a nature conservation area.

Unfortunately, the cliché did manifest itself one day with a long dry spell. We drove down to Pantai Chenang. What a mistake. As we sat enjoying teh tarik by a beachside café, conversation was difficult due to the distractions of banana boats ripping through waves, parasailers being dragged around by fast boats, and jeeps transporting people from pickup points to watersport stations, and back. The water was criss-cross -littered with floating dividers in different colors, making out swim lanes and divisions between swimmers and motor equipment. I am glad to report none of us seemed inclined to buy a fanny pack, a souvenir T-shirt, and a beer; and as the sun set we happily drove back to our little corner of the island. Not even a photo remains of this experience.

The night was long, just the way I prefer: with philosophical conversation, a few bottles of wine, sounds of the beach, frog song, and the darkness of the rainforest. The essence of Langkawi is its gorgeous (and brave) nature. Only one person was reported killed due to the 2004 christmas tsunami – the reef right outside our resort took the blow and saved the island. While others party away on Pantai Chenang, the people of the resort collaborate to reconstruct the reef, giving back thanks of survival. This is the Langkawi I like and will one day return to. Because, again, my snorkel gear remained useless in my backpack.

(Langkawi, Malaysia; September 2016)


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Day escape

It was the last real summer’s day in Helsinki, as it turned out later. And sadly, this day came already early in August. But our timing was perfect, and so was the tabbouleh and the cheese cake and the temperature of the prosecco in the coolbox. Is there a better way to celebrate a family birthday than by having a picnic by the shore, with this view of the Helsinki skyline? 
(Vasikkasaari, Helsinki, Finland; August 2016)


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Trailing thoughts under the sea

In Finland, most people are divided into two kinds: the lake people, and the sea people. This has to do with where one spends one’s summers. The lake people cannot understand why anybody would need storms, big waves, smelly water, and to be tangled in seaweed when swimming. The sea people on the other hand cannot understand why anybody can feel alive in the confined spaces of a lake in the woods, without the promise of vastness and escape, and with the mosquitoes, and the sour water.

If you have read my writings even for a short while you have probably figured out I am a sea person. I need the sea because it teaches me, like Pablo Neruda said. The aquarium of Biarritz is one of the grand, old aquariums in Europe, originating in the 1880s. Since 1933 it has moved to a fabulous, art deco building that on the outside looks like it grew from the bedrock, and on the inside feels like you are part of a never-ending maze in the ground.

And so, I could spend hours wandering around the maze of the aquarium watching the strange and colorful world under the sea. The ocean is beautiful from the shore, indeed, but it is so much more astounding underneath the surface, where one rarely gets the possibility to peek. We think we’ve seen it all, but once we see phosphorescent creatures, fish with lamps growing out of their heads, fish with tiny legs, giant squids, and that weird thing called sunfish, we understand how limited our imagination really is.

Once I spent weeks tracking dolphins on the coast of Kenya. As part of the project, we also surveyed the reef. Like a kid I waited for the daily, one-hour immersion in 3D live-streaming television, better than any silver screen movie.

When girls grow up, they often want to work with animals, and thus hope to become one of three: a) veterinarian; b) horse trainer or rider; and c) marine biologist. I got a couple of points away from entry to veterinary school (I now know I took the better road), and I do have a biologist’s background training, but I never ventured into marine biology. Do I have regrets? No. But I have basic field training, and I ensure I have time to study the world under the water while tracking dolphins in the Amazon or in Kenya. And maybe one day I will find myself spending much more time with the sea than in the air.

Regrets are much more than wasted thoughts – they are misguided energy. So I try my best to choose how I live each day. And perhaps I one day choose to spend more time studying the sea.(Biarritz, France; July 2016)


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Stillness, ilam tea, and tales of Patagonia

180southPerhaps once in our lives (or twice, if we are lucky), a simple idea becomes a quest. Not because the idea is somehow once-in-a-lifetime, but because we let it carry us to unknown territory. We listen to it. We jump aboard. And if we use our intuition as much as our brain, we might end up with an impact greater than we imagined. For example, for Yvon Chouinard and Doug Tompkins, deciding to lay a new climbing route in Patagonia in the 60s turned out to become a lifelong mission to protect precious dwindling wilderness. Between the climbing and the planet-saving, there was a climbing gear company renamed Patagonia, another two garment and outdoor companies founded and sold (North Face and Esprit), and suddenly enough capital to buy land, piece by piece, in Southern Chile and Argentina.

I have mentioned the story before. This time I followed 180 degrees down South with a professional surfer who decided to repeat the trip from the 60s, to find his own mission, and to uncover the roots of the story of the two friends who ended up becoming my inspiration for responsible business and protecting the planet.

(Helsinki, Finland; April 2016)


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I need the sea because it teaches me

seashore-1

I need the sea because it teaches me,
I don’t know if I learn music or awareness,
if it’s a single wave or its vast existence,
or only its harsh voice or its shining
suggestion of fishes and ships.
The fact is that until I fall asleep,
in some magnetic way I move in
the university of the waves.

(Pablo Neruda)

seashore-2(Helsinki, Finland; April 2016)


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Borders are a human invention – part II

loviisaforest-1Borders are a human invention. Ownership of anything is a human invention. We cannot function without slicing and dividing this planet into pieces, each claiming ownership of one plot – or several. In society at any age in history, landless people were always the sorriest lot. In many countries owning land is common, whereas in other cultures the divide between land owners and the landless is broad and deep.

But Nature knows no borders. Nature owns everything. And so we must work to keep the borders between my father’s forest and the neighbor’s forest clear and visible. Yet I could not find the borders of our forest if I tried. A rock here, a cleared corridor there. Fortunately we have no fences as animals know of no borders either.

As we walked around, trying to get a feel of which turf and tree is owned by whom, I got a sinking feeling of being a badly programmed human. Because I would easily overlook any border and happily chop off a christmas tree in the neighbor’s forest. And I thought of a passage from my favorite poem in the whole world, “Progressive insanities of a pioneer” by Margaret Atwood:

He stood, a point
on a sheet of green paper
proclaiming himself the centre

with no walls, no borders
anywhere; the sky no height
above him, totally un
enclosed
and shouted:

Let me out!

loviisaforest.3(Loviisa, Finland; March 2016)