We humans like borders. Territories. Yours and mine. Ours and theirs. It started with “my fireplace and your fireplace”, expanded into “my yard and your yard”, and finally into “my country and your country”.
Many European kingdoms of times gone by were small. Just as far as one’s eye could see – and no further, because who knows what looms behind those mountains? Genoa used to be a city republic. A little like Athens in ancient times. The borders ran just as far as one’s eye could see: up along the ridges of the hills. So did the walls around Genoa, too. Like a miniature version of the Great Wall of China. The walls are walkable today – if you have good balance.
The trails up along the hills are many, and they are tiny. Please take a photo of the map at the trailhead, and ensure your Google Maps is loaded to show the map of the area even if you go offline. You may get lost – and the distances are surprisingly large.
Fortunately, because this is Italy, one can find little restaurants and osterias in surprising locations. And oh, what delicious melanzane alla parmigiana did we find in a little village restaurant! Who cares if the serving was simple and the television was loud inside – the view was breathtaking and the food and a simple rosé wine took any remaining breath away. Where, you might ask? You will have to find out by yourself. Just follow the path up from the Righi funicular station, past the fortresses. You will be hungry by the time you find this little gem.
(Genoa, Italy; July 2018)