This blue marble

– and yet it spins


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Silentium

vienna-1Silentium. Silence. For the sake of the bones of 145 Austrian emperors, empresses, church leaders, and other rather important people. vienna-2Their earthly remains are encapsulated in copper and bronze tombs that are (mostly) elaborate. Some the size of a one-room apartment, decorated like a wedding cake on the outside. But for some very macabre reason, the hearts and intestines are missing from most of the persons. Because, natürlich, hearts and intestines were buried separately, in quite another crypt. All of this is very Egyptian, somehow. vienna-3The Capucin crypt contains rows and rows of sleeping Habsburg emperors and empresses. Even Maximilian the Emperor of Mexico (yes, really, for a brief moment). But the two last emperors are missing. Franz Ferdinand, whose assassination snowballed into WWI, is buried elsewhere in Austria. His son Charles, the last proper emperor of Austria, is buried in Italy.

It must be heavy to carry the Imperial crown even when one is dead. Yet this bronze death skull guy is doing it just fine, save for a few missing teeth. vienna-4(Capucin Crypt, Vienna, Austria; February 2017)


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When in Vienna…

wiencoffeeWhen in Vienna, order coffee like the Viennese.

Yes. This is what the drink looked like before I took a single sip. I believe it is one little espresso shot being crushed under a mountain of whipped cream.

The Einspänner really is more cream with coffee than coffee with cream. The story goes that an Einspänner was the favorite drink of the Viennese one-horse-carriage drivers: hot espresso coffee warming one’s hands, staying warm by the insulation of the massive heap of cream on top. If one got a customer, one could simply filter the hot coffee through the cold cream and drink it up in a few seconds.

I can think of no other city where horse carriage drivers have such a sumptuous and functional signature drink. And I cannot help but wonder if the original Einspänner did not contain a wee dram of booze, at least from time to time?

(Vienna, Austria; February 2017)


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Snowy Polish patchwork blanket

snowyfieldsLast night I came home from Zurich. This morning I am going back down again, to Vienna. One could ask why I did not just stay in Zurich and fly directly to Vienna. Because: 1) I would not have been able to accompany my mother (in business class). And 2) I would not have been able to see this artsy snowy patchwork blanket that is Poland on a February morning.

(Yes, still posting with a terrible backlog. But keep reading, you will see wonderful photos of the most girly pretty city in Europe).

(Above Poland; February 2017)


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Zurich, one restaurant at a time

zurich“You have such a fabulous job!” “You get to see the most cool innovations, and so many places!” “Sounds like so much fun!”

These are common comments when people hear what I do. Yes, it’s fun. But it is also very many f**k-o’-clock early mornings on the airport, many hotels that all feel the same, and many taxis. Sometimes I snap to consciousness in a taxi, unsure of what language I should use. Often I remember the previous hotel room number and try to break in to the wrong room.

I try my best to see the new cities I visit, but sometimes it is just not possible. As an example let’s take Zurich. I have visited the geographical location about 4-5 times. 2-3 times due to a layover at the airport, with no time to go see town. 2 times I got to go to town, where I saw the city center pass by the taxi window on the way to the hotel and the Six Swiss Exchange. I saw a river. Twice. Yay. I had some Tannenkäse. Absolutely amazing. But the most I have seen of Zurich is 2 local restaurants, one for each visit.

That’s it. Can I say I have been to Zurich? Probably not really. Perhaps next year I should try to squeeze in a weekend stay-over. And lots more Tannenkäse.

I posted a photo above. I suppose I should tell you which restaurant I went to this time. I forget. My apologies. Maybe next time.

(Zurich, Switzerland; February 2017)


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One night with the circus

cirque-2Finally, at the top floor or Royal Albert Hall. Impressed at the sight below me, I took some photos. “Do you know where you should be?” asked a friendly seating assistant. I pointed at a seat just below the ceiling – I had been late with booking my ticket. “Would you like a seat down there by the stage?” Goodness me, yes. I did. Fifth row from the stage. What an experience.cirque-3 And the best thing is, like those freak shows of old, Cirque du Soleil is always on the lookout for people with unusual skills. Talented skater, athlete, rope skipper, martial artist? Maybe you know of an ancient performing art only a few people remember? Perhaps you should join the circus.
cirque-1(Royal Albert Hall, London, United Kingdom; January 2017)


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Somewhere between poetry and insanity

wigmore

“Occupation is essential. And now with some pleasure I find that it’s seven; and I must cook dinner. Haddock and sausage meat. I think it is true that one gains a certain hold on sausage and haddock by writing them down”

(Virginia Woolf’s last diary entry before her suicide)

Somewhere between poetry and insanity tonight. Alice Coote sang Virginia Woolf’s diary entries, and letters from 19th century patients locked up at a mental illness asylum. “Strange Productions” was the aptly named title of the insanely poetic letters, commissioned by Wigmore Hall from Nico Muhly.

Wigmore Hall is a constant favorite. Not because of the (also insanely) beautiful venue, but because of the director and his creative team who commission modern classical pieces with a flair. Never bored here, although sometimes mindlessly enthralled.

(London, United Kingdom; January 2017)


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Old English pubs

eaglechildBusiness lunch at Eagle and Child with a quantum physicist, discussing medical sciences. Dinner at the Bear Inn, a pub from 1242, among 4,500 club ties (including one tiny panel in the ceiling for women’s ties). Instead of rowdy drunk people, there were ladies dining and students playing chess with glass pieces.

Only in Oxford. oldpub(Oxford, United Kingdom; January 2017)


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Detour in the Other Place

oxford-5

“I wonder anybody does anything at Oxford but dream and remember, the place is so beautiful. One almost expects the people to sing instead of speaking. It is all—the colleges I mean—like an opera.”

(William Butler Yeats)

One freezing January week I made a detour to The Other Place, as those who went to Cambridge call Oxford (and vice versa). Fortunately I was able to break the news over Facebook, otherwise some of my Cantabrigian classmates would have probably made multiple attempts at lynching me.oxford-3But during that week there was no time to dream and remember. There were studies, 8 hours a day, with smart people from all around the world. There were too many age-old pubs. There was afternoon tea with champagne. There were colleges to discover.oxford-2And there was even a futile attempt at fencing. Apparently, women wear a madonna bustier – hence the busty look. Another mystery solved. It also turns out well-mannered fencing men have serious trouble fighting a woman – not because of chivalry but because they must shamelessly attack the bustier.

(No photographic evidence but trust me, I did wear the sour-smelling sweaty old gear including mask).oxford-1(Oxford, United Kingdom; January 2017)


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About freezing mist and change

bruges-3Freezing water needs a surface to form ice crystals. Trapped in the still, cold air, it remains liquid, supercooled, even if the temperature is below zero degrees Celsius. Contact with a surface helps the water droplet organize into a new shape, one that is right for the current weather.

Most often, we people also need contact to form our thoughts and feelings. When the environment changes, our minds are often trapped into bubbles, knowing we should take a different shape but not being able to change. Contact helps crystallize our minds just like it helps crystallize water.

It was a freezing night in Bruges, with supercooled mist hanging over the canals. The water droplets did not have contact to help them change and grow, but I did.

(Bruges, Belgium; December 2016)